Outdoor Halloween Decorations

I thought we were finished with our Halloween decorations for this year, but, after assembling all the photos, I'm thinking I need a little more on my porch.  I pulled out my Halloween wall hanging quilt and had to figure out how to hang it on our new steel door.  Luckily, it was smaller than the center window.  So, I decided to get a few suction cups with hooks on them.  I got mine from amazon but I'm sure they carry similar at a dollar store type store.  To hang the quilt on the hooks, I used office binders.

Here it is centered on the window.  The suction cups are easily holding the quilt.

I didn't want to hang it on the glass screen door because I was concerned that maybe some condensation would build up and get on the quilt.  The only problem with not hanging it there is now there is a glare on the quilt during the day.  But looks great in the evening.  So, I'm OK with the evening view under the lights.  Here's where I think we need a lot more decorations.  All our decorations are in the yard.

Here's the yard decorations.  The main feature is a bale of hay and then a dollar store type scarecrow, some coleus plant from summer that grew like a weed.  A local mum that has a great burgundy color and the pumpkins in disguise.  Hard to believe Halloween is almost here. 

Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

Decorating Pumpkins

Every year I say that I am going to carve an elaborate pumpkin.  You know, one of those carved masterpieces you see.  Every year I put off the carving and never get to it.  This year is no different.  However, this year I decided to create some embroidered masks to at least dress up our pumpkins.  I drew and digitized two masks.  One is a kitty cat disguise and one is a masquerade mask disguise.  I have to admit, I'm happy with the results. 

I made the cat mask first yesterday.  I digitized the design and appliqued the ears pink.  I also added metallic thread for the whiskers.  I think the whiskers part took the longest since the thread kept breaking.  I pinned on the ribbon to the side of the mask (sometimes pins are just the right craft tool) and then pinned on elastic in back.  As one of my blogging friend cleverly said... it's purrrfect.

 

I had so much fun with that one that I wanted to do another one.  It would be either a dog or a sparkly mask.  Any chance to use rhinestones wins the choice for me every time.  So I drew a mask outline and added an embroidery design to the overall mask.  Then I used the satin outline last around the mask.  This time, I used pliers to add grommets to the side of the mask.  This made it easier to add the elastic to the mask.  Of course I used pins to secure the eleastic again. This allows me to easily change the sizes.

It's a dreary rainy day here in central pa so my pumpkin photo is not that cheery.  However, once the sun shines later on in the week, I expect the mask to work it's magic for Mr. pumpkin. 

Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

Second Breast Cancer Quilt Dedicated

My second Breast Cancer quilt was dedicated over the weekend in West Virginia.  I received information and photos yesterday after I posted my first blog entry.  So, here's another entry to show where the second quilt went to.  This one went to Belington, WV.  It's funny, I don't remember it being that small looking.   At least they were both laying flat in the photos.   I like the second photo that shows the word courage.  I always look forward to assembling these quilts each year and the inspiration they provide.

Thanks for stopping by!
~*~Trish~*~

One Breast Cancer Quilt Dedicated

I received word that one of my breast cancer quilts has been placed in Strecker Cancer Center at Marietta Memorial Hospital in Marietta, Ohio in honor of Breast Cancer month.  I understand that it will be traveling around a few offices there.   I'm so glad that others will be able to read the messages on the squares that were sent to me to sew together.  The quilt is really basic but the messages are so powerful.  Here's a few photos from the dedication that I did not attend.  I also learned that the second one will be dedicated to a clinic in West Virginia.

Thanks for stopping by!
~*~Trish~*~

Finishing Practice Placemats with a Faux Binding

I finished up the four placemats on my practice backing and cut them apart.  I was going to take them on vacation with us to hand sew down some binding edges but decided to try something else out.  I wanted to try a faux binding.

Here are the materials that I used.  Some painters tape, an iron, some glue and of course my rotary cutter and mat.  This method worked out well for me because the placemats had a double sewn edge all around the design.  It would probably work with a single edge as well or even the square placemats.

I started out by rough cutting the fabric (both top and backing) around the edge at least 2 inches wide.  Then, on one edge at a time, I pulled back the top fabric until it was even with the seam.  This is where sometimes I used the painter's tape to hold back the fabric temporarily.  This gave me the ability to cut the batting and backing to 1/4 inch away from the outermost sewn seam on the placemat top. 

Repeat on each side of your placemat until it looks similar to this photo. This is the bottom of the placemat.  The practice backing fabric I had on the frame was a natural colored basic muslin. You can see the top fabric is still very long.

Now with the back of the placemat facing up, I measure 1.25" from the edge and trim the top fabric on all sides to this width.

Next, one side at a time, I folded the front fabric and tucked it under the 1/4 inch lip of batting and backing and then ironed it flat.  This takes a little practice.  You could probably stop at the edge of the batting/backing but then when it's folded over the back, it would be a single fold of fabric.    Make sure to iron flat so that it is easier in the next step. I left the photo below full size so you could probably zoom in once clicked on to get a better view of the folded back and ironed side.  Repeat for each side.

Next, one side at a time, I placed a line of glue (beads or full thin line) in between my two side seams that run the whole perimeter of the placemats.  I'm going to fold back the folded side and glue and iron to secure in place.  The heat really sets the school glue.

Wrap up the folded front fabric on top of the glued edge to set the faux binding.  You want to make sure you cover the border seam since we will be retracing that seam to secure this fabric in place.  Repeat on each side.  The corners can be a little tricky but you just work with them and then they'll stay secured.

Once all sides care glued to the back and secured.  Take the placemat to the sewing machine and retrace the outlines seams around the edge of the placemat.  I had two so I retraced both seams for added security.

Here is mine retraced

The first two had some ripples in the turn back of the faux binding but by the last two, I had it down pat and flat.  Here are the finished placemats.  Once I got started, I finished them pretty quickly and hope to do more in the future. 

The great thing about these are that I consider them reversible now.  I hope my MIL likes them for her fall table.  Although I think I need to do two more since I believe she has 6 settings usually. 

Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

Auditioning Quilting Designs

I have been playing with Photoshop Elements to cut and paste a quilting design onto the Pink Star quilt.  The quilting would actually be done using white thread but I used black paintbrush to see if I like the placement.  I would like to just outline the star blocks and use the "Kitty and Daisies Block 13" design from One Song Needle Arts in the other areas.

For now, I've just been working on stitching out the design block and making sure the quilting works with the threads on scrap fabric and batting.  I'll have to switch over to white thread and see how it goes too.  I think the challenge will be placing the block design just right to make sure the center circle goes over the 4 points that come together in the non-star areas.

Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

Quilt Backing - Cutting it Close

It was great getting a chance to visit with Mom this past week.  Now it's back to the normal routine and finding time to finish the Pink Star quilt.  I was able to finish the quilt backing early this morning.  There are two things about this quilt backing that bother me.  One being the one tumbler die (with the big white arrow pointing to it) I did not center the white stripe.  It did not look as obvious when it was the other direction.  Maybe I'll just rotate the backing.

The second item is that I am cutting it close on length.  I think I only have a 1/2 inch on top and bottom extra.  I'm debating whether to piece an extra strip or take a chance.  More than likely I'll add a pieced strip just to be safe.  It would be so disappointing if I started quilting and then the backing ended up short.  So, one more step to finish the backing and we'll be ready to start pinning.  Looking at the photo, I should have ironed it before photos.

Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

Copy of your Blog

I'll be stepping away from the Pink Quilt for a little bit.  Off to visit with family.  So, I have a couple of non related items to share along the way.

Over the summer, I shared a way to publish your blog into a book using a service I found SharedBook Blog2Print .  I am not compensated by them, just a happy customer so far.  The previous blog that I had printed to a physical hard copy book was a smaller private blog that was not too expensive to print to hard copy.  However, my craft blog would have been over 300+ pages.  So, I opted to have a pdf file created from the blog.  This way, I don't have to click on the blog navigation to look back at the different entries.  They still lay it out with all entries being indexed in the front of the file and rearrange all photos to be able to display them more efficiently on the page.

The price to create the full pdf of my blog from June 2008 until yesterday was $7.95.  So, just an option I wanted to share with the bloggers out there.  It was super quick and easy. 
Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

Part 2 - AccuQuilt Hunter's Star Quilt Instructions - Adding Borders

Now, I’m a little unconventional on how I measure and apply my borders and corner blocks. So, I completely understand if you want to use your own method of accurate measuring. The borders are basically 3 strips of fabric sewn together alternating dark, light, dark and then 4 corner blocks. If you are continuing to follow from part 1 instructions, you probably already have your half square triangles for the corner blocks cut out and sewn together to make the half square triangle squares such as the one pictured below image7.

You should have 16 of these created from sewing the 16 light half square triangles with the 16 dark half square triangles cut and set aside for the corner blocks.

Image7

CRUNCHING THE NUMBERS

Border & Corner blocks

• 16 light 2 1/2"half square triangles **** Probably already cut and sewn in Part 1 instructions ****
• 16 dark 2 1/2" half square triangles**** Probably already cut and sewn in Part 1 instructions ****
  
  
• border strips (2) 2" dark strips and (1) 1.5"

CUTTING THE STRIPS

I like to cut my border strips too big for the quilt. I like to be safer than sorry and anything that is left over, I try and add to the back of the quilt or use somewhere else like a pillow or something.   I currently do not own the strip cutter dies for the AccuQuilt Go product. If you had the 2” and the 1.5” strip cutter dies, this would work great for you as well. So, if your finished center measured approximate 50+” long and approx. 41+” wide, this is how I generally measure it.

Dark Strips Cut 2” wide

Since I have two strips of dark on each side of the border, I would cut 3 strips of dark fabric the full length of my fabric width for each side of my quilt. This ends up being 12 strips of the dark fabric cut in total. This was not scraps. The fabric width is usually anywhere from 41-43” long.

I cut 4 strips in half and join each half piece to a full size piece. This gives me approx. 8 strips at about 61” each of strip. I know I’m about 10-20 inches too long. However, I like to use the extra on the backs for use on a pillow in the future.

Light Strips Cut 1.5” wide

Since I only have 1 strip of light fabric on each side of the border, I would cut 6 strips of light fabric the full length of my light fabric width for the whole quilt. Again, this was not scraps. The fabric width is usually anywhere from 41-43” long.

I cut 2 strips in half and adjoin each half piece to a full size piece. This gives me approx. 4 strips at about 61” each of strip. I know I’m about 10-20 inches too long. I like to use the extra on the backs for use on a pillow in the future.

ASSEMBLING THE BORDER SIDES

Each side has 3 strips (2 dark and 1 light) 1.5 times the length of your fabric width. Or approximately 60” long.

Sew one light strip onto one dark strip right sides facing each other. Open and iron the seam to the dark side the whole length of the strip. Now attach the second dark strip to the open side of the light strip with right sides facing each other. Sew the full length of the strip using a ¼ inch seam. When completed, open and iron the new seam to the dark side of the fabric. Your top and bottom of the strip will look like the sample below in image8 and image9 below. The borders should measure 4.5 inches wide when completed as in image10.

image8

image9

image10

Repeat this process 4 times to create a side border for each side of the quilt. Once ironed, set them aside.

ASSEMBLING THE BORDER CORNER BLOCKS

Each corner block is made up of 4 dark and 4 light 2.5” half square triangles which when sewn together above, gives you 4 half square triangle squares. I use two different types of corner blocks to represent the two different centers of the stars on the quilt. You could very easily use all 4 blocks the same if you would like. The two layout of square I use are positioned as such:

image 11 image12

In both cases, flip block B onto block A and sew right sides together on the right side. Flip block D onto block C and sew right sides together on the right side. You end up with two rows for each block. Reposition rows to match the photos above. Flip AB row onto CD row and sew right sides together. Make sure to match up your seams and sew the right side to produce the matching blocks. You should repeat this until you have 2 complete blocks to match image11 and two complete blocks to match image12. Your blocks should finish out at 4.5” square.

ADDING THE BORDERS TO THE QUILT CENTER

I add the left and right side borders first. These are straight basic seams adding the border to the quilt right sides together. Trim the top and bottom edges of the added border even with the quilt center.

image13

On the last two borders (top and bottom), I trim one edge on each border to have a straight edge to sew one of the corner stones to. I leave the rest of the border length and end alone. I only use one pin on the seam of the attached corner block to make sure it lines up with the seam of the left border.

PLEASE NOTE: The following photo examples are from another quilt I was working on. I did not take pictures when I added the borders to my hunter’s star quilt. However, the process is still the same.

I stop sewing the top border all the way across the top and stop about 3” away from the right side seam where the corner block should be.

I then measure with a ruler to mark ¼ inch past the right border seam to know where to trim my newly added top border.

Then I trim the newly added border on the line just marked. I usually just cut with scissors while sitting at the sewing machine.

Next, I pin the last corner block for the top border to the newly trimmed edge. Reposition this newly added block under the machine and sew the corner block on to the attached border. This is why I leave about 3” not sewn on the border. It allows me to rearrange the quilt to get the border block under the needle to sew. Then I realign my border to my quilt with the newly attached cornerstone, pin the seams and continue sewing the rest of the border on.

When the top border is attached, you’ll see the corner blocks match up perfectly.

REMEMBER: The border photo examples are from another quilt I was working on. I did not take pictures when I added the borders to my hunter’s star quilt. However, the process is still the same.

Repeat for the bottom border. However for the bottom border, I start on the right side of the quilt first. This allows me to have the border on the top of the quilt when I sew and the quilt bulk is to the left of my machine. Just a preference of mine. I try and use the excess border strips for the back of the quilt or a matching quilt pillow. I hope these instructions allow you to make a hunter’s star quilt as well. If you have any questions or corrections, please feel free to contact me.

Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

Part 1 - AccuQuilt Hunter's Star Quilt Instructions

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Let’s try this again.  I wrote most of these instructions up yesterday and accidentally deleted them.  I was so sick, they were so detailed.  O-well… Back to the drawing board.   I usually do not write a lot of quilting instructions so please let me know if you find any errors or have any questions.  

HOW I CUT WITH MY ACCUQUILT GO

I used the small AccuQuilt Go Value Die for this quilt.  It works with the AccuQuilt Go Baby but I don't have a Go Baby just yet.   I usually cut a maximum of 4 layers of fabric on my AccuQuilt Go.  It just works best for me to help in making sure the cuts stay as accurate as possible.  Also, I always line up my fabric edge (you know the one with the manufacturer’s name on it) parallel with the long edge of the die.  There are also some great tips on the AccuQuilt Go and Yahoo Group.  

I usually cut or rip my fabric into strips and then I accordion fold it over closely over the one die needed.  My strips are just a little bit wider than the item trying to be cut.  This allows me to minimize my scraps.

 

And before I know it, I have a whole pile of cut out blocks.

CRUNCHING THE NUMBERS

Center Quilt Blocks

•          240 Light 2 1/2" half square triangles
•          240 Dark 2 1/2" half square triangles
•         30 4 1/2" light squares
•          30 4 1/2" dark squares

Border & Corner blocks

•     16 light 2 1/2"half square triangles
•         16 dark 2 1/2" half square triangles
•          border strips (2) 2" dark strips and (1) 1.5" light strip

PREPARING THE BLOCKS

First step is to pair up all 240 dark half square triangles with your 240 light half square triangles and sew right sides together.  During this time, I feed them one by one into the sewing machine and then snip separate them later. Iron each one open pressing the seam to the dark fabric.

Repeat the steps above with the half square triangles for the border .  Match one light with one dark and sew right sides together.  Iron each one open pressing the seam to the dark fabric.

PUTTING THE BLOCKS TOGETHER

Now, it is all about direction on the blocks.  There is really one base block to this quilt that when repeated creates the star.  Make 24 full blocks and then we'll make 6 blocks without the final seam.

In image1 you can see the direction placements for the half square triangle blocks.  We'll start working in the top left section, place 4 of your half square blocks to match the image.  Make sure you keep track of which side needs to be sewn to keep the blocks in the direction originally laid out.  Sew TL1 to TR1 to make a row 1 in image2 (below) and then sew TL2 to TR2 to make row 2 in image2 (below).  Ignore the 4 1/2 inch blocks for now.  In the bottom right quadrants of Image1, position 4 more half square triangle blocks in the right directions to match and then sew BL1 to BR1 to form row 3 in image2 (below) and then BL2 to BR2 to form row 4 in image 2 (below). 

Image1

Image2

 

Position your rows to match the layout in image2 above.  Now sew Row 1 to Row 2 with matching up the center seams.  Once completed, the block will match block1 in image3 below.  Move on to sew Row 3 to Row 4 to create block2 in image3 below.

image3

image4

 

To finish the block, match the positioning in image3 and sew Block1 to a Dark 4.5” plain block.  Then sew a light 4.5” plain block to Block2.  Finally, sew the two block top half to the two block bottom half to complete the block as in image4.   Repeat this process to create 24 of these individual blocks.    There are 3 more blocks to complete.  However, on these 3 blocks, do not sew the top half to the bottom half.  This will leave 24 completed blocks and 6 halfs.

ASSEMBLING THE QUILT CENTER

Then assemble each of the 24 full blocks to match image5 below.  I usually complete the rows first and then assemble the rows.  All you need to do is make sure your blocks match the layout in image4 below.  You basically rotate the individual block to match up the “feathers” of each star.  Also, I took a lot of time to match up the seams and pinning.

image5

 The six half blocks will be going on the right and left sides of the center quilt.  Assemble the half blocks to match the layout below in image6. 3 half blocks for each side.  Then attach the two rows to the left and right of the center quilt.  Be careful to match up all the different seams.  I like to use pins to make sure my seams line up.

image6

On to Part II for the borders.

Thanks for stopping by!
~*~Trish~*~