AccuQuilt Tumbler Flag Binding Completed

Well I finished it!!  5 days later than the intended holiday but completed just the same.  Now it will be available for future celebrations.  I opted to piece my binding to match the changing colors on the tumbler American Flag.  I am very happy with how it turned out.  There are a lot of seams on the binding since I used leftover tumbler blocks for the red/white stripe ends. 

Here's the finished flag

Also, here's a close up for some of the changing colors.

Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

Flat Sue and Sam

I love working with digital files and machine embroidery.  I also love doing things the easy way too!  I'm a hobbyist and not a professional and I love creating items to give away or sell for charity.  If I can put less stress and pressure on myself, I'm all in.  The quicker and easier things are, the better.  You are seeing the picture.  That's why I also like the AccuQuilt Go and fabric die cuts. 

When I saw Marjorie's shop at http://shop.b-quilts.com/ and all the beautiful Die Cut and AccuQuilt Go Machine Embroidery Files, I thought it was great find and count me in. When I reviewed all of her files, I was drawn to Sunbonnet Sue and Overall Sam.  I recently purchase the AccuQuilt Go templates so I was excited to put them to use.  I've just found a new obsession thanks to Marjorie!

I'm pulling Sam and Sue off the fabric quilt blocks and creating my Sam and Sue for unconventional uses.  You never know, your children may make them their new Flat Sue and Flat Sam.  No one knows, where they will be photographed next.  I can see future posts on new versions so I've added a new category for Sam and Sue on my blog!  So sit back, grab a cup of coffee and enjoy!

My Favorite Tips

• If you are going to applique for a quilt block, try and cut the quilt block fabric larger than needed and then you can center the applique after the machine embroidery is completed.  This way, you are guaranteed to be centered!
• Don't be afraid to stop your embroidery machine and change colors mid stream.  Even though a piece may be designed as one color, you can stop and switch colors and then let it continue on.
• Consider making your machine embroidery pieces as free standing appliques and then sew, glue, or iron them on to their destination.
• Unless you are doing contest pieces, just enjoy the process and go with the flow.  If the thread breaks, OK, back up a few stitches and restart. If it keeps breaking... cuss a little and keep going. 
• I love using sticky back tear away stabilizer.  It works well with making applique machine embroidery pieces.  It sometimes has little fuzzies around the edges so sometimes I combine it with water soluble stabilizer.
• If the stabilizer is not sticky back, I'll use the 505 Temporary adhesive spray to help keep the fabric pieces in place.  
• If you have questions on anything, please feel free to email me!

  CUTTING THE PIECES

Don't worry If you don't own the AccuQuilt Go Sunbonnet Sue and Sam,   Marjorie's excellent instructions also come with a printable template for the pieces!  Here are the dies used as well as my Fall fabric choices in the cut pieces.

PREPARING THE EMBROIDERY BACKING

As mentioned above, I like the function and stability of the sticky back stabilizer but I don't like the feathered edges it sometimes produces when you pull it away from an embroidered piece.  So, sometimes I go the extra step to stitch out the template outline on the sticky back stabilizer and then I cut it out in one piece cutting directly on the sewn outline (See Steps A and B below).  I then redo the first step of stitching out the template onto wash away stabilizer.  Where the outlined it stitched on the wash away stabilizer, I then place the sticky stabilizer "cut out" within the lines. (See steps C and D below)  I use some temporary adhesive spray to keep it in place.  Then I add the fabric pieces as instructed. 

STITCHING OUT THE EMBROIDERY FILES

I have to say that Marjorie's files do stitch out beautifully!  I love the variety of options you get in each embroidery file purchased.  For Sunbonnet Sue you receive 7 different designs and with Overall Sam, you receive 5 different stitch combinations.  I place the fabric according to the instructions (See image A below).  The white you see around the edges is the sticky back stabilizer. Next time, I'll cut it a little smaller,  Then I let the design files and decorative stitches take it away from here. (See images B and C below)

FREEING SUE AND SAM

Once the file have stitched out, now comes the fun part.  Even though I used the combination of Sticky Back stiff stabilizer and wash away stabilizer, it's really the wash away stabilizer that's keeping Sue and Sam on the hoops.  Once I take the stabilizer out of the hoop, I just give a little tug and it starts to separate easily from the wash away stabilizer.  If you would prefer, you can follow the instruction for the wash away stabilizer and use water.  Again, quick is good for me.  You can see the freed Sue and Sam below.  Also, a photo for the back of the stitch outs.  You can now see the sticky back stiff stabilizer.  This helps in giving Sue and Sam some structure!

GREAT, NOW WHAT???

OK, from here there's so many things to do with Sue and Sam.  Here are a few of my ideas:

• Obviously, you can applique them onto fabric either using fusible webbing or stitching without having to worry about whether it's centered or not.
• You can glue a stick on the back of them and then cover that with felt or something harder like cardboard to make stick puppets... lol
• You can add business card magnet paper to the full size and make a car magnet.  :-)

WRAPPING IT UP

I had so much fun creating the Fall Sam and Sue that I couldn't help but go back to stitch out another set using Marjorie's other layouts for Sue and Sam.  This time however, because of a cantankerous bobbin and temperamental top thread, I had one heck of a time on Sue.  This is exactly what I meant with just relax and most all things will  work themselves out.  Look at the mess I created with the bobbin thread and breaking top thread.  This was totally my machine's fault and nothing to do with the beautiful embroidery files.

 

But, if you use a little creativity, you can fix anything.  Here is the Sunbonnet Sue before the bobbin and top thread fiasco on Sue's decorative dress border and then after.

And after I finished the Sam, I added few magnets to the back of Sunbonnet Sue and Sam and here's the great reminder I have for everyone today!!  Right now they are on my fridge, but they are moving to my filing cabinet at work today!

Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

It's Completed - Lotta Love

I finished my Lotta Love wall hanging on Wednesday!  I actually free motion quilted the wall hanging instead of stitching in the ditch, which was a first for me.  I credit SewCal Gal's Free Motion Quilting challenge for pushing me to use my practiced skills.

I was thinking about adding rhinestones to the hearts in each flower but I have decided against it for now.  Here is the finished product.

Quilting

Finished Quilt

It is hanging in our living room for the next couple of weeks.  I added a matching binding to the outside of the quilt.

Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

Hunter's Star Quilt 100% Complete

Yeah, it's done!  I just finished sewing on the binding and snipping all the threads from the quilting.  I'm so happy with the results.  It ended up finishing at 48" by 56".  So, here are the final photos of the 100% complete quilt!

Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

Hunter's Star Quilting Completed

I completed all the quilting on the Hunter's Star Quilt this morning.  I am shocked at my own progress.  Once I turned the radio on downstairs and started quilting, it was done within two days.  I also created a border design for the quilt using Art and Stitch software.  I traced the daisies and created a small medium and large daisy to sprinkle on the border in different patterns.  The block quilting pattern used is the Kitty and Daisies Block 13 design from One Song Needle Arts.

If you want to see the photos closer up, click on the images.  If you get the new blogger photo viewer (which I don't like) then click on the link to view the original image and then you can click again to zoom in on the photo.

Here's a close up of the border.  You know how hard it is to photograph quilting.  I love how the overall quilting turned out.  That's big for me to say because I'm my harshest critic and usually find flaws.  The quilting is so subtle on the front that you really don't see it detracting from the stars.  But, if you look carefully for the quilting pattern, it then appears.  I used Superior So Fine 401 thread for the quilt top.  The photo below also shows how I left the first two half stars with ruler work quilting.  Don't look too closely there :-)

Here is the front of the quilt.  I photographed it outside to try and have the quilting show up.

Here's the full back of the quilt.

Next step, finish stitching the corner blocks, trim the quilt and add the binding and I can actually say it is completed. 
Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

Auditioning Quilting Designs

I have been playing with Photoshop Elements to cut and paste a quilting design onto the Pink Star quilt.  The quilting would actually be done using white thread but I used black paintbrush to see if I like the placement.  I would like to just outline the star blocks and use the "Kitty and Daisies Block 13" design from One Song Needle Arts in the other areas.

For now, I've just been working on stitching out the design block and making sure the quilting works with the threads on scrap fabric and batting.  I'll have to switch over to white thread and see how it goes too.  I think the challenge will be placing the block design just right to make sure the center circle goes over the 4 points that come together in the non-star areas.

Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

Quilt Backing - Cutting it Close

It was great getting a chance to visit with Mom this past week.  Now it's back to the normal routine and finding time to finish the Pink Star quilt.  I was able to finish the quilt backing early this morning.  There are two things about this quilt backing that bother me.  One being the one tumbler die (with the big white arrow pointing to it) I did not center the white stripe.  It did not look as obvious when it was the other direction.  Maybe I'll just rotate the backing.

The second item is that I am cutting it close on length.  I think I only have a 1/2 inch on top and bottom extra.  I'm debating whether to piece an extra strip or take a chance.  More than likely I'll add a pieced strip just to be safe.  It would be so disappointing if I started quilting and then the backing ended up short.  So, one more step to finish the backing and we'll be ready to start pinning.  Looking at the photo, I should have ironed it before photos.

Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

Part 2 - AccuQuilt Hunter's Star Quilt Instructions - Adding Borders

Now, I’m a little unconventional on how I measure and apply my borders and corner blocks. So, I completely understand if you want to use your own method of accurate measuring. The borders are basically 3 strips of fabric sewn together alternating dark, light, dark and then 4 corner blocks. If you are continuing to follow from part 1 instructions, you probably already have your half square triangles for the corner blocks cut out and sewn together to make the half square triangle squares such as the one pictured below image7.

You should have 16 of these created from sewing the 16 light half square triangles with the 16 dark half square triangles cut and set aside for the corner blocks.

Image7

CRUNCHING THE NUMBERS

Border & Corner blocks

• 16 light 2 1/2"half square triangles **** Probably already cut and sewn in Part 1 instructions ****
• 16 dark 2 1/2" half square triangles**** Probably already cut and sewn in Part 1 instructions ****
  
  
• border strips (2) 2" dark strips and (1) 1.5"

CUTTING THE STRIPS

I like to cut my border strips too big for the quilt. I like to be safer than sorry and anything that is left over, I try and add to the back of the quilt or use somewhere else like a pillow or something.   I currently do not own the strip cutter dies for the AccuQuilt Go product. If you had the 2” and the 1.5” strip cutter dies, this would work great for you as well. So, if your finished center measured approximate 50+” long and approx. 41+” wide, this is how I generally measure it.

Dark Strips Cut 2” wide

Since I have two strips of dark on each side of the border, I would cut 3 strips of dark fabric the full length of my fabric width for each side of my quilt. This ends up being 12 strips of the dark fabric cut in total. This was not scraps. The fabric width is usually anywhere from 41-43” long.

I cut 4 strips in half and join each half piece to a full size piece. This gives me approx. 8 strips at about 61” each of strip. I know I’m about 10-20 inches too long. However, I like to use the extra on the backs for use on a pillow in the future.

Light Strips Cut 1.5” wide

Since I only have 1 strip of light fabric on each side of the border, I would cut 6 strips of light fabric the full length of my light fabric width for the whole quilt. Again, this was not scraps. The fabric width is usually anywhere from 41-43” long.

I cut 2 strips in half and adjoin each half piece to a full size piece. This gives me approx. 4 strips at about 61” each of strip. I know I’m about 10-20 inches too long. I like to use the extra on the backs for use on a pillow in the future.

ASSEMBLING THE BORDER SIDES

Each side has 3 strips (2 dark and 1 light) 1.5 times the length of your fabric width. Or approximately 60” long.

Sew one light strip onto one dark strip right sides facing each other. Open and iron the seam to the dark side the whole length of the strip. Now attach the second dark strip to the open side of the light strip with right sides facing each other. Sew the full length of the strip using a ¼ inch seam. When completed, open and iron the new seam to the dark side of the fabric. Your top and bottom of the strip will look like the sample below in image8 and image9 below. The borders should measure 4.5 inches wide when completed as in image10.

image8

image9

image10

Repeat this process 4 times to create a side border for each side of the quilt. Once ironed, set them aside.

ASSEMBLING THE BORDER CORNER BLOCKS

Each corner block is made up of 4 dark and 4 light 2.5” half square triangles which when sewn together above, gives you 4 half square triangle squares. I use two different types of corner blocks to represent the two different centers of the stars on the quilt. You could very easily use all 4 blocks the same if you would like. The two layout of square I use are positioned as such:

image 11 image12

In both cases, flip block B onto block A and sew right sides together on the right side. Flip block D onto block C and sew right sides together on the right side. You end up with two rows for each block. Reposition rows to match the photos above. Flip AB row onto CD row and sew right sides together. Make sure to match up your seams and sew the right side to produce the matching blocks. You should repeat this until you have 2 complete blocks to match image11 and two complete blocks to match image12. Your blocks should finish out at 4.5” square.

ADDING THE BORDERS TO THE QUILT CENTER

I add the left and right side borders first. These are straight basic seams adding the border to the quilt right sides together. Trim the top and bottom edges of the added border even with the quilt center.

image13

On the last two borders (top and bottom), I trim one edge on each border to have a straight edge to sew one of the corner stones to. I leave the rest of the border length and end alone. I only use one pin on the seam of the attached corner block to make sure it lines up with the seam of the left border.

PLEASE NOTE: The following photo examples are from another quilt I was working on. I did not take pictures when I added the borders to my hunter’s star quilt. However, the process is still the same.

I stop sewing the top border all the way across the top and stop about 3” away from the right side seam where the corner block should be.

I then measure with a ruler to mark ¼ inch past the right border seam to know where to trim my newly added top border.

Then I trim the newly added border on the line just marked. I usually just cut with scissors while sitting at the sewing machine.

Next, I pin the last corner block for the top border to the newly trimmed edge. Reposition this newly added block under the machine and sew the corner block on to the attached border. This is why I leave about 3” not sewn on the border. It allows me to rearrange the quilt to get the border block under the needle to sew. Then I realign my border to my quilt with the newly attached cornerstone, pin the seams and continue sewing the rest of the border on.

When the top border is attached, you’ll see the corner blocks match up perfectly.

REMEMBER: The border photo examples are from another quilt I was working on. I did not take pictures when I added the borders to my hunter’s star quilt. However, the process is still the same.

Repeat for the bottom border. However for the bottom border, I start on the right side of the quilt first. This allows me to have the border on the top of the quilt when I sew and the quilt bulk is to the left of my machine. Just a preference of mine. I try and use the excess border strips for the back of the quilt or a matching quilt pillow. I hope these instructions allow you to make a hunter’s star quilt as well. If you have any questions or corrections, please feel free to contact me.

Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

Part 1 - AccuQuilt Hunter's Star Quilt Instructions

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Let’s try this again.  I wrote most of these instructions up yesterday and accidentally deleted them.  I was so sick, they were so detailed.  O-well… Back to the drawing board.   I usually do not write a lot of quilting instructions so please let me know if you find any errors or have any questions.  

HOW I CUT WITH MY ACCUQUILT GO

I used the small AccuQuilt Go Value Die for this quilt.  It works with the AccuQuilt Go Baby but I don't have a Go Baby just yet.   I usually cut a maximum of 4 layers of fabric on my AccuQuilt Go.  It just works best for me to help in making sure the cuts stay as accurate as possible.  Also, I always line up my fabric edge (you know the one with the manufacturer’s name on it) parallel with the long edge of the die.  There are also some great tips on the AccuQuilt Go and Yahoo Group.  

I usually cut or rip my fabric into strips and then I accordion fold it over closely over the one die needed.  My strips are just a little bit wider than the item trying to be cut.  This allows me to minimize my scraps.

 

And before I know it, I have a whole pile of cut out blocks.

CRUNCHING THE NUMBERS

Center Quilt Blocks

•          240 Light 2 1/2" half square triangles
•          240 Dark 2 1/2" half square triangles
•         30 4 1/2" light squares
•          30 4 1/2" dark squares

Border & Corner blocks

•     16 light 2 1/2"half square triangles
•         16 dark 2 1/2" half square triangles
•          border strips (2) 2" dark strips and (1) 1.5" light strip

PREPARING THE BLOCKS

First step is to pair up all 240 dark half square triangles with your 240 light half square triangles and sew right sides together.  During this time, I feed them one by one into the sewing machine and then snip separate them later. Iron each one open pressing the seam to the dark fabric.

Repeat the steps above with the half square triangles for the border .  Match one light with one dark and sew right sides together.  Iron each one open pressing the seam to the dark fabric.

PUTTING THE BLOCKS TOGETHER

Now, it is all about direction on the blocks.  There is really one base block to this quilt that when repeated creates the star.  Make 24 full blocks and then we'll make 6 blocks without the final seam.

In image1 you can see the direction placements for the half square triangle blocks.  We'll start working in the top left section, place 4 of your half square blocks to match the image.  Make sure you keep track of which side needs to be sewn to keep the blocks in the direction originally laid out.  Sew TL1 to TR1 to make a row 1 in image2 (below) and then sew TL2 to TR2 to make row 2 in image2 (below).  Ignore the 4 1/2 inch blocks for now.  In the bottom right quadrants of Image1, position 4 more half square triangle blocks in the right directions to match and then sew BL1 to BR1 to form row 3 in image2 (below) and then BL2 to BR2 to form row 4 in image 2 (below). 

Image1

Image2

 

Position your rows to match the layout in image2 above.  Now sew Row 1 to Row 2 with matching up the center seams.  Once completed, the block will match block1 in image3 below.  Move on to sew Row 3 to Row 4 to create block2 in image3 below.

image3

image4

 

To finish the block, match the positioning in image3 and sew Block1 to a Dark 4.5” plain block.  Then sew a light 4.5” plain block to Block2.  Finally, sew the two block top half to the two block bottom half to complete the block as in image4.   Repeat this process to create 24 of these individual blocks.    There are 3 more blocks to complete.  However, on these 3 blocks, do not sew the top half to the bottom half.  This will leave 24 completed blocks and 6 halfs.

ASSEMBLING THE QUILT CENTER

Then assemble each of the 24 full blocks to match image5 below.  I usually complete the rows first and then assemble the rows.  All you need to do is make sure your blocks match the layout in image4 below.  You basically rotate the individual block to match up the “feathers” of each star.  Also, I took a lot of time to match up the seams and pinning.

image5

 The six half blocks will be going on the right and left sides of the center quilt.  Assemble the half blocks to match the layout below in image6. 3 half blocks for each side.  Then attach the two rows to the left and right of the center quilt.  Be careful to match up all the different seams.  I like to use pins to make sure my seams line up.

image6

On to Part II for the borders.

Thanks for stopping by!
~*~Trish~*~

Finished Hunter's Star Quilt Top

The Hunter's Star quilt top is now completed.  I added the borders and corner blocks yesterday.  I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.  Especially since this was created completely with the pink scraps that were cut off of the backing to the Breast Cancer Quilts.  I used all the scraps cut from the two quilt backing sides. I ran them through the AccuQuilt Go and created all the blocks necessary to create the pink portions of the quilt.  The white was from my stash.  I used a different white on white in the border.  You can't really tell.

Next step is to decide on how I want to quilt the top.  I'm leaning more towards stitch in the ditch.  My other option is an all over design.  For now, it's hanging in my entryway and I'll keep looking at it to decide how to finish it.

Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~

Leftover Pink - Hunter's Star

I have a lot of pink fabric left over from the Breast Cancer Quilts.  I also read somewhere that you could make a Hunter's Star Quilt using some of the die cuts from the AccuQuilt Go Value Die Set.  I love the hunter's star pattern.  But, I've never made one.  So,  I used some of my backing scrap fabric (cut off from trimming the quilts) and set to cutting out lots of 2.5 inch triangles.  There are only 2 triangle dies on each pass but I put up to 4 layers of fabric myself.  I figured that I needed 8 pink triangles and 8 white triangles and then 1 pink square and 1 white square.

This block has a lot of pieces but I think it just might work.  Hopefully I don't tire of all the pieces.  Here's 4 of the finished blocks.  To my surprise, it works.  Can you spot all the pieces?  If you would like me to write up instructions, let me know. 

Thanks for stopping by!  
~*~Trish~*~